Anchor repair

One of the main activities of the company I work for is marine repairs. Some of these works are being executed on board, but we also have a workshop ashore. Here we do standard repairs, like reconditioning of connecting rods, valves, pistons, cylinder heads, fuel injection equipment etc.

Every now and then though, we do some special repairs. Like the two anchors we received in our workshop yesterday. The bore of the hole, through which the anchor is connected with a shackle to the anchor chain, had worn out over time.

anchor1.jpg

To repair this, we first machine the hole to an oversize, in order to allow a bush with the correct nominal diameter to be shrunk in. The bush is machined separately.

anchor2.jpg

After heating the upper part with a propane or butane flame, the bush can slide in and is being held solidly in place after cooling down.

anchor2b.jpg

anchor4.jpg

Both the oversize hole and the bush insert, have a bevel machined to it. To finish the repair, the groove between bush and body of the anchor top is filled up by a circular weld.

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About Stranded Mariner

Marine Engineer and passionate sailor and cruiser, working in the marine business in China.
This entry was posted in Marine Engineering, Ship Repair. Bookmark the permalink.

8 Responses to Anchor repair

  1. Pingback: Anchor Repair | gCaptain.com

  2. Pingback: 2010 in review | Stranded on the Largest Island

  3. Vinit Midha says:

    Good Morning
    I am facinf a similar problem on 2 pcs of 15T anchors. Which company can do these repairs.

  4. harshad says:

    Can you have any standards stating how much clearances is allowed?
    Regards

    • For moving parts like the anchor shackle pin or the moving shaft of the flukes and crown, the head pin and the
      head pin retaining bolts and various swivels, the general acceptable increase in clearance is 10% of original
      pin/shaft diameter.
      Kenter shackle parts are to fit tightly together without any movement. Loose parts indicate that the shackle is
      worn out or rusted, and that it is to be renewed.
      The diameter of the hole for the anchor shackle pin in the anchor is not to be worn more than 10% above the
      original hole diameter.
      Check for excessive wear in the head of the swivel.

  5. Senja says:

    I would assume the anchor, when new, is delivered with a bronze bushing in the anchor head. As the bushing wears, at the time too much wear has occurred, the worn bushing is removed, and a new bushing is pressed into the anchor. As long as the anchor shackle / shackle pin are in place, the bushing will never accidently fall out of place. The anchor never has to go to shore, or be machined for re-bushing. Granted, I’ve never done this with really big anchors, but I do this every day with airplane components. This is why airplanes never wear out. They just get new bushings, bearings, etc. We never re-bore landing gear hydraulic rams or wing actuators. We never heat the bearing journals, but always chill, via dry ice, the bushings. When they are really cold, they slide into place easily. Looks to me like lugging that big old anchor around and setting it up in a boring mill is a major ordeal. Seems like there ought to be an easier way.

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